The ‘Real Maestranza di Caltanissetta’

The Master Pastry Chefs of the Real Maestranza busy preparing wafers for ice cream cones, 1960

In the picture: The Master Pastry Chefs of the Real Maestranza busy preparing wafers for ice cream cones, 1960.

The origin of the ‘Real Maestranza di Caltanissetta’ dates back to the second half of the 16th century, when Juan de Vega, Viceroy of Sicily, decided to establish urban militias in all towns centres for fear of a Turkish invasion of the island. The class of citizens that best met this need was that of the ‘maestranza’, i.e., the master craftsmen who were regulated in artistic guilds according to precise statutory rules and were allowed to purchase weapons.

The Caltanissetta urban militia was actually rarely called upon to defend the city ; it was most often deployed to honour visiting dignitaries or on solemn occasions, such as religious processions.

Made up of ten craftsmen brotherhoods, including pastry chefs, bakers and cooks, the Real Maestranza presides over the Easter rites of the city as a true protagonist. In particular, the Captain is the most important institutional figure in Caltanissetta during Holy Week.

On Holy Tuesday, the spiritual assistant of the Real Maestranza and the Captain, accompanied by the Captain Offices (Squire, Ensign Major, Standard Bearer, Historical Standard Bearer and Halberdier), by the Presidents of the artisan categories and by the Masters of Ceremonies, collect the Revered Blessed Sacrament Crucifix from the Cathedral for the rite of the solemn enthronement, in which the image is veiled. Immediately afterwards, the Captain receives the cross in black gloves and tie, symbolically carrying the original sin.

The Holy Wednesday ceremony is the central moment of the Real Maestranza. From early morning the entire Real Maestranza honour the Captain at his home. Then the procession sets off towards the city palace, where the Captain receives the keys to the city from the mayor. The procession resumes its course and reaches the chapel of the former Jesuit college, where the spiritual assistant of the Real Maestranza raises the Holy Cross veiled in black to entrust it to the Captain after a moment of prayer. From there, the penitential procession begins, in which all the artisans, wearing black gloves and bow ties and a candle with the signs of the "Passion", parade between two crowds. After reaching the Cathedral to attend Eucharistic adoration, the black gloves and bow ties are replaced by white ones as a sign of the Resurrection of Our Lord Jesus Christ; even the black ribbons of the flags are replaced by white ribbons and unfold in celebration. The Captain is assisted by the Masters of Ceremonies and by his family members to change his black gloves,bow tie and even his socks with white ones.

Between Thursday and Friday, a delegation from the Real Maestranza led by the Captain makes a sort of solidarity pilgrimage to various institutions in the city: Ospedale Sant’Elia, Casa Rosetta di assistenza disabili, Laboratorio Analisi sul cancro, Casa per anziani, Centro antiviolenza sulle donne, Unione Italiana Ciechi and Istituto di Pena Minorile (Sant'Elia Hospital, Rosetta Home for the Disabled, Cancer Laboratory, Home for the Elderly, Anti-Violence Centre for Women, Italian Union of the Blind and Juvenile Detention Institute).

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic (2020-2021), Captain Calogero Garzia, Squire Michele Palmeri, Ensign Major Giuseppe Romè, Historical Standard Bearer Michele Pace and Standard Bearer Antonio Amico, all from the brotherhood of bakers, confectioners and cooks, together with the whole of the Real Maestranza, decided to suspend the events related to Holy Week for health and safety reasons. However, in these years the pastry chefs have continued to delight their fellow citizens as Real Maestranza exponents with the so-called ‘Rollò’, the typical Caltanissetta dessert invented by them, a symbol of the city's identity.

The Real Maestranza still plays a fundamental role both inside and outside the city by promoting the name of Caltanissetta nationally and internationally. In particular, the Master of Ceremonies Geraldo Gianni Taibi (in office since 2021) is actively involved in the promotion and cultural enhancement of this tradition through attractive initiatives and publications.

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